Eviana Hartman for Bodkin

Friday, 06/05/2009

Meet Eviana Hartman, the designer behind Bodkin's eco-chic Brooklyn-based clothing line. Bodkin was named the inaugural recipient of the Ecco Domani Sustainable Design Award for 2009, which rewarded Hartman's ability to artfully merge her love for the environment with her prowess for design. Before focusing on designing, Hartman was a fashion writer for Vogue, Nylon, Teen Vogue and founded the column "EcoWise" for The Washington Post. Her Bodkin line follows the principles of sustainability in materials and production methods -- the clothes are crafted in N.Y.C. with organic cotton and wool and artisanal vegetable dyes (think spinach and eggplant). The result is a line that is both classic and sharp, and definitely tailored for the forward-thinking girl. Here, Hartman speaks to Blush about her transition from fashion writer to fashion innovator.

What inspired and motivated you to launch your own eco-friendly brand?

Many things inspired it, but I think William McDonough and Michael Braungart's book Cradle to Cradle really spurred the decision, in that it helped to reconcile my obsession with clothes and design with my desire to contribute to a better world. It argues that design need not be wasteful and creativity need not be limited -- that we can design things more thoughtfully and holistically, following the model of nature itself. Obviously rampant consumerism has many troubling downsides, but we can all see right now that a lot of people make their livelihood making things. So why not make them better?

How did working at some of the top national magazines help you in your new clothing venture?

Working at those magazines, and Vogue in particular, taught me to have high standards and pay attention to detail. And seeing so many clothes and lookbooks come in and out really honed my taste, as far as what I like and what I want to wear. It led me to subconsciously block out trends and hype, and appreciate subtlety and simplicity.

Did you have any doubts about starting an eco clothing line?

Of course! I knew there wouldn't be a ton of materials to choose from, but that was what made it a challenge. I also still have doubts about whether what I'm doing can really be called sustainable. Do we really need more stuff? Do we really need more clothes? And if I'm using new materials and shipping them over from Japan, how is that sustainable? So I'm looking at it as an experiment, not a model of perfection.

How do you see the trend of eco-friendly clothing evolving considering what is out there on the market today?

Almost every influential, directional designer in the regular "fashion" arena I know is really eager to use more sustainable fabrics. Demand will lead to better fabrics with a better look and feel and drape, and more designers with distinct visions who don't advertise themselves as 'eco' incorporating more environmentally sensitive fabrics into their work.

Where do you get inspiration for your designs?

Everyday life and what I feel I wish existed; vintage and disintegrating clothes; and modern architecture. More often than not, I think of design ideas when I'm spacing out on the subway or when I wake up in the middle of the night. I don't do a lot of aesthetic immersion and historical research when it's time to seek inspiration. I wish I had time!

Bodkin is available at Steven Alan, No. 6, Jumelle, and Bird. For more information please visit bodkinbrooklyn.com.